The city of Jinju in southern Gyeongsang Province hosts the Flowing Lantern Festival on the Jinju Namgang (Nam River). The river dazzles as close to 50,000 rainbow-colored light sculptures illuminate the surface of the water.
The festival dates back to October of 1592 and the battle for the Jinju Fortress. Leading a force of only 3,800 men, General Kim Si-Min is said to have killed close to 20,000 Japanese troops in the heroic 7-day siege. Korean soldiers inside the fortress flew lantern kites and floated lamplights on the water to send signals to other loyal troops and prevent the Japanese forces from crossing the river in secret. They also used flowing lights on the river to signal their safety to their families. Later, the floating lanterns served to commemorate the lives of the fallen soldiers and in 1949, the floating lantern tradition turned into a river play. 2002 marked the inception of the festival as it stands today.
During the day, you can take a spin on the river in a dragon or swan paddleboat (5,000 won per boat with each boat sitting up to 4-5) and get a view of the lanterns close up. Stroll through the market tents also along south bank of the river and you’ll find items like shoes, household goods, curtains, and fish.
Inside the stone walls of the fortress, you’ll find a temple and Euiam (“rock of righteousness”) marking the site where Non-Gae, the famous kisaeng (female entertainer) seduced the Japanese general to a cliff above the river where she embraced him, locked the rings on her fingers together, and threw herself and him into the water, killing them both. Directly in front of the spot on the water is a lantern sculpture depicting the scene.
There are also performance stages, a stone gallery, observatory, and exhibits of Joseon Dynasty weapons on display. Various parades occur throughout the day and many families picnic in the shade of the park grounds.
The lanterns face the north bank of the river and the giant lantern sculpture of the temple. Restaurant tents are situated at the beginning of the north bank and offer traditional Korean dinner fare. A bamboo forest also runs along the top of the north end and features lanterns in the shapes of insects cheerfully hung in trees, as well as artificial cricket and bird sounds. This area is rife with tourists seeking prime river photo ops, although it also offers benches for a quiet sit down away from the crowds. Thoughtfully placed rest areas with “Spring Water Free” provide a handy spot to fill up your water bottle.
The festival comes alive after 6:30p.m., when the lantern sculptures light up. The view from either of the two bridges is at its peak as the sun is setting. Pay 1,000 won to cross either of the two decorative footbridges floating directly on the surface of the water or take the street level bridges, although do beware that all thoroughfares become extremely crowded after dark.
Further along the north bank, there are stations to make your own lantern, although it does take an enormous amount of dedication to transform wire and bits of tissue paper into something resembling the three dimensional sculptures on display. Giant paper tunnels on the north bank are ceilinged with these handmade lanterns in a myriad of characters and figures, including Sponge Bob, a red high-heeled shoe, and a giant Korean flag. Each lantern is hung with handwritten wishes like “please make me grow taller”, as well as prayers for good scores on tests and hopes for a unified Korea.
A festival brochure provides a guide to a few of the hundreds of sculptures on display. It highlights the intricate scenes from traditional folk tales, Korean heroes, and animals as well as lanterns representing different countries. Nighttime riverboat rides provide a brilliant view of the glowing sculptures, though a reservation is necessary and spots fill up quickly.
At the end of the north bank there are animated lanterns on ground, including a fire-breathing phoenix, a peacock, a crazy cab and driver, and a Harley-riding hog shooting flames from a bazooka, as well as lantern rides in the shape of a mechanical bull and pig for the little ones. Even the garbage receptacles get in on the lantern act in shapes of birds, tigers, and fish.
Cross over the bridge to the south bank and you’ll find more landed lantern exhibits and an amateur performance stage with shows ranging from children in traditional dress, to hip hop dancers, and mature women doing fitness routines. The south end of the river also features a giant fountain with colored lights and timed water routines.
Voted one of the “10 Best Festivals” by the Korea Board of Tourism, the brilliant candy-colored light panorama offers something for everyone.
Bus is the most convenient mode of transportation, though be sure to check your local bus schedules, as last busses to many locations leave around 7:20pm. Since the best part of the festival occurs after dark, it may be worthwhile to spend the night in a cheap yeogwan readily available along the riverfront near the bus terminal. Room rates run from 30,000-45,000 depending on the number of occupants.
Written by Christianna Lee
Photos by Heather Watson
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