In Korea, barbeque pork restaurants are ubiquitous; however, Don-yah Barbeque stands ahead of the pack. Located just behind the Suseong-gu Government Office subway stop, across from the LG store in Beomeo-dong, Don-yah is a small restaurant easily identifiable from the amazing smell of meat and wood fire wafting from it.

Like many pork restaurants, Don-yah is self-service. Vegetables offerings such as lettuce, carrots, peppers and cucumbers are available as well as a couple of other side dishes. There are a variety of sauces such as soy sauce and wasabi, sweet mustard, and chili sauce. However, it is the wood fire that makes Don-yah different. The fire is situated in the middle of the back wall. It looks like it would be more comfortable at an Italian pizza place, but it has found its true calling. Once you order, the owner places the meat in the oven. The meat is cooked, and infused with the smoky flavor of the wood. Just before it is fully cooked, the meat is removed and vegetables like onions, kimchi, and garlic are added to the pan. The meat is brought to your table and cooked for the final minutes before your eyes.

Menu items include your regular pork offerings of samgyupsal and moksal in a soy or hot marinade. For me, though, if I’m indulging myself, it is the ribs. A row of baby back pork ribs with a spicy smoky marinade might be the thing that dreams are made of. You can get a half or full order. They are a little on the pricey side at 18,000 won an order, but in my opinion are well worth it.

By Michelle Van Balkom-Nicholson